For many years, the Russian manicure technique was kept a trade secret in the salon industry, as only a few chosen nail technicians were able to perform and advocate for it. Refinery29.com: However, things swiftly changed after it went popular on TikTok, to the point where one of the most searched beauty questions on Google right now is “Russian manicure near me.”
However, the Russian manicure isn’t really anything new—the only difference is that more people are aware of it today, as is the case with most TikTok phenomena. Owner of Austin’s Nail Art House Academy + Nail Salon and expert in Russian manicures, Natalie Zheltovski tells Glamour, “I’ve been doing Russian manicures and educating clients about this technique since 2016.” “It was a relatively unknown service back then, but people are looking for salons that offer this service specifically these days.” What caused this change, though? Zheltovski highlights the method’s “impressive results,” but refinery29.com’s heated debate about the procedure is a major factor in its recent rise in popularity.
Dana Stern, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City with a focus on nail health and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, says, “While I understand the appeal of certain trends, this one has me perplexed.” She is not by alone. Approximately 969 million of the over 1 billion TikTok videos on the Russian manicure trend discuss whether or not the trend is safe. Many more people disagree with dermatologists and nail technicians who have contributed much of the content to this page, saying that they disagree with the method and do not suggest it. And refinery29.com goes on and on.
Glamour questioned specialists about what they knew about the Russian manicure in an effort to clear the air. In this manner, you will be able to decide for yourself whether or not to follow this specific trend with complete knowledge.
A Russian manicure: what is it?
Russian manicures differ from French manicures in that they focus more on grooming methods than aesthetic preferences. According to Zheltovski, there are a few more names for Russian manicures, such as combination manicure, e-file manicure, and dry manicure. “A Russian manicure combines precise cuticle work—which, depending on the professional, might be done with nail bits, scissors, or nippers—with gel overlay.”
Additionally, a Russian manicure is entirely dry, thus none of this requires soaking your hands in water. According to Dr. Stern, “a Russian manicure emphasizes meticulous attention to a pristine polish application, complete cuticle removal, and careful and precise removal of previous gel and polish.” “Abrasive brushes are also occasionally used for intense exfoliation at refinery29.com, and drill-like tools are sometimes used to remove cuticle and skin surrounding the nail.” refinery29.com/en-us/russian-nail-manicure
Interpretation? In order to make more room for polish, the Russian manicure method involves removing as much skin as possible from the nail area. The epidermis and nail take longer to come back after this than they do after conventional manicures, which gives the finish a “cleaner” appearance and enables you go longer between sessions at refinery29.com.
Ordinary manicures versus Russian manicures
Zheltovski claims that the primary distinction is a careful cuticle job that, depending on skill, can take anywhere from 20 to 45 minutes. And that’s only the cuticle prep. The structured gel technique, which is a part of Russian manicure services, is another distinction. At refinery29.com, it aids in strengthening the natural nail plate and gives nails a smoother, more even appearance.
A Russian manicure should take about two hours to complete, and you should budget between $100 and $250. Zheltovski thinks it’s worthwhile even if it sounds like a lot of work and money: “The results speak for themselves,” she adds. “It lasts longer and looks so clean that getting a russian gel manicure every ten days is no longer necessary.” Receiving this only once a month saves you time.
What advantages may a Russian manicure offer?
Zheltovski lists a few other advantages of Russian manicures, but the longevity of the hairstyle is the key advantage. “We don’t soak gel in acetone, which is a great thing about the technique,” she says. “We use a nail drill to file it down, eliminating 95% of the gel in this manner while leaving 5% of the product on the nail plate in the event that there is no chipping or lifting. After that, we use structural gel and follow the same cuticle-cleaning procedures as before. This keeps acetone from dehydrating nails and promotes nail growth, reducing the likelihood of breakage and peeling at refinery29.com.
Zheltovski claims that since she began receiving only Russian manicures, she has seen an improvement in the condition of her own nails. She claims that “when I have consistent appointments, my cuticle and nail plate look better.” “You can never go back to a standard gel manicure after trying a Russian manicure.”
Is getting a Russian manicure safe?
Although the procedure has many aesthetic benefits, Dr. Stern points out that these are not without danger. The primary advantage lies in the fact that the polish is put behind the proximal nail fold, hence extending the manicure’s longevity beyond that of a standard manicure. Refinery29.com: Having said that, they have made a hole in the cuticle, which is the protective layer, which allows them to apply the polish beneath the fold, the spokesperson explains. “Repeatedly removing all of the cuticle usually allows yeast to enter the nail, leading to a chronic paronychia at refinery29.com,” the website states.
Dr. Stern claims that since the cuticle serves as the nail’s natural barrier, removing it entirely may be hazardous. She states, “Yeast and even bacteria cannot penetrate the nail unit because of the cuticle,” and she has already noticed some of the aforementioned diseases surface online. “A lot of the pictures that I’ve seen on social media that purport to show off gorgeous nails really have signs of chronic paronychia on them. Even if the lacquer appears flawless, my skilled eye detects infection-related symptoms at refinery29.com, such as swollen, pink, and puffy nail folds.
Finally, there’s always the chance that instruments could spread illnesses other than yeast. According to Dr. Stern at refinery29.com, “because this technique is more aggressive than a typical manicure, there is more potential for infection, so the tools that are being used must be immaculately sterilized.”
Zheltovski thinks that if you see a skilled specialist, the procedure itself may not be the problem.”The Russian manicure is safe and beneficial when done by a trained professional with sanitized tools,” according to Refinery29.com. Sharp scissors, an e-file machine, or a technique are not relevant. It has to do with who works at refinery29.com.
How to obtain the most secure Russian hairstyle
Find a highly skilled technician who is dedicated to sterilizing their instruments in three steps if you want to attempt a Russian manicure on your own, advises Zheltovski. “Look for jobs on Google Maps, Instagram, and, of course, recommendations from friends or blog reviews. Additionally, you may search by hashtag,” she explains. After three or four weeks of wear, always examine the nail technicians‘ work; this will reveal a lot. Examine the cuticle to check for any nails that hang down and note how long the gel lasted. The easiest way to verify is always with before and after pictures.
Dr. Stern advises seeking experienced professionals but warns about the technique’s risks. Look for seasoned practitioners for safety